Apolitical Platform

-

The 'platform' for the sanijet tub is ready for plumbing. Rather than building 2x4 supports on the outer and inner wall, Rick went with a single 2x6 since the surrounding platform is only 5" wide finished. Here's plan for finishing this off. I'm writing it down since its a bit confusing.

1. build platform with durock top (not sides yet)
2. drop in tub with 1" foam representing mortar set, and with
tile sample on top
3a. set overflow/drain in tub
3b. set PVC drain (P-trap) in hole below, access through shower side wall (squeeze in between studs)
4. mark holes for platform mount tub faucet
5. remove tub, overflow/drain attached
6. drill holes through durock/2x6 plate
7. install valve and copper plumbing
8. wait for plumbing inspection!

9. install durock on walls
10. wrap everything with Schluter Kerdi for waterproofing
11. install marble tiles with Schluter Rondec only on TOP of tub platform
12. wait for tile to set
13. pour 1"+ inches of mortar on floor for tub base (careful not to be close to channel dug
for the tub drain)
14. put 2 mil plastic over mortar to separate the tub from the mortar cleanly (this will allow clean removal of the tub later if needed.. hopefully)
15. carefully drop tub in, guiding the overflow drain into the p-trap.
16a. start gently pushing tub down into mortar evenly on all sides. Make sure tub is LEVEL, and water will drain (pour just enough in to check)
17. hand-tighten the slip joint, then use channel locks to tighten a bit more
18. done!

comments welcome.



Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Up on the Roof, Down goes the old

-
Image
Our 2nd floor tenants here mentioned the ceiling in the kitchen was showing some water damage again after the last big snowstorm. I figured I had already patched that area above the kitchen with lots of tar last year, but apparently to no avail. I've know since I bought the building that the roof needed to be completely replaced, since much of it was rippled and many of the joints with the parapet walls were tearing.  I made the mistake of hiring some fly by night contractors to put a layer of paint-able rubber membrane on over 5 years ago, and I thought that would hold it for awhile, but the membrane already had started coming off in the same year.  At that same time, I did get some estimates for a 'modified bitumen roof' for about $10K.  Once of the estimators took a sample of my existing roof, and said there were 7 layers of roof, and what looked to be the original gravel roof! So, obviously, this roof needed to be completely torn off. I contacted a numbe...
Read more

Chevy HHR water leak passenger floor, HVAC fan dead

-
Image
After watching a number of youtube videos, I discovered there's a commonly worn out cover under the windshield cowl.  The rubber piece covering this hole (called the fan access) was completely damaged and sunk into the hole.  Water was just pouring in from windshield, then under the hood, then into this hole right into the passenger side behind the glove box. access hole under windshield cowl replacement cover with silicone seal installed cover, hopefully no more leaks here A terrible side effect of having water pour into the access hole is damaged HVAC fan and its resistor.  The 'resistor' enables the fan to have different speeds.  So, it looked like in the end, the water started leaking in, damaging the resistor and the fan would only run on high setting (no resistor).  Then after time, more water would cause the DC motor to fail (rusted brushes, bearings, etc.).  The last symptom was a soaking wet passenger floor carpet. ...
Read more

Nip and tuck

-
Image
Once spring finally arrived in Chicago, it became clear the front parapet wall needed to be repaired before a city inspector looked up. BEFORE I already had a quote in hand from Stan Guzik for rebuilding the top part of the wall, full tuckpointing, and brick cleaning.  I hoped to have Marion Restoration out for an updated quote, but no call back from them.  I was very concerned how the brick itself would be treated throughout the process, since they don't make the same face brick anymore, and the joints are not your modern 1/4" joint, they are 'butter joints' which are about 1/8" thick.  The typical electric grinder used to remove the old mortar would surely destroy the brick.  I didn't get any verbal assurances from Stan that the brick would be untouched before the job, and i didn't press for any answers, either (more later). *falling* stone facade (on misty morning), you can also see open mortar joints below and around window sill, and the...
Read more