Saturday, January 24, 2015
Monday, January 19, 2015
Before mounting the fronts, I predrilled the holes for the drawer pulls using a drill press. The drill press makes perfect holes in the right location and straight in.
I used 3mm Tavy tile spacers to mount the drawer fronts. I had to hold the tile spacers in place while placing the front against the drawer, sort of a pain, but it worked. It would have been easier to mount these with just wood glue, but I didn't want any glue drip here (like i saw in this video), and I couldn't figure out a way to clamp it after the front was in place. This is an 'after picture', after screwing the fronts to the drawer from the back using self-tapping screws and mounting the hardware. I did have to drill the hole in the drawer for the hardware from the front AFTER mounting the front. The sequence was a bit complicated.
Mounting the false fronts under the sink needed a different strategy. There was no drawer to mount the front to, so i had to figure something out. I couldn't mount it to the cabinet panel, there was only a few millimeters of overlap there. I created some mounting blocks using some spare oak. I used the Kreg jig to create the pocket holes for the mounting screws. The mounting screws are also from Kreg, as its part of their system. The blocks were affixed to the side panel using wood glue and screws. I used an adjustable square to offset the block from the cabinet by 1mm to match the doors and drawers. The next day, i was able to mount the false front to the cabinet.
|my favorite glue, not Elmer's!|
Finished product below. If anyone has an idea to keep the 'single mount' handles on the doors tight and aligned, let me know. If you're not gentle with them, the screw comes loose and it twists out of alignment. I've already tried some
Tuesday, December 31, 2013
We ordered silestone quartz countertops through home depot before thanksgiving. They subcontracted the job to Stone Systems in Mundelin, IL.
There were many people involved with the complete job: Home depot kitchen and bath sales, HD special services desk, SS templater, SS fabrication, SS scheduler, SS installers, and finally SS sales.
Sunday, July 21, 2013
|portable Kreg jig with clamp|
|drilling the pocket hole using Kreg drill bit|
|using right angle adapter to drill hole in shallow cabinet|
|fastening the face frame to cabinet using Kreg screw|
|cabinet in place with face frame|
Saturday, May 25, 2013
I already had a quote in hand from Stan Guzik for rebuilding the top part of the wall, full tuckpointing, and brick cleaning. I hoped to have Marion Restoration out for an updated quote, but no call back from them. I was very concerned how the brick itself would be treated throughout the process, since they don't make the same face brick anymore, and the joints are not your modern 1/4" joint, they are 'butter joints' which are about 1/8" thick. The typical electric grinder used to remove the old mortar would surely destroy the brick. I didn't get any verbal assurances from Stan that the brick would be untouched before the job, and i didn't press for any answers, either (more later).
you can also see open mortar joints below and around window sill,
and the common brick behind the facade
|beginning of work, before scaffolding setup|
|Stan's crew in full swing, rebuilding top of wall|
When I returned home from work on the 2nd day, they were done with the wall rebuild, and had removed the mortar in preparation for tuckpointing from the entire wall. I looked closely at the job they did on the mortar removal, and it became quickly obvious they removed it using a angle grinder (sample photo below). This would have been fine if it were common brick or larger mortar joint, but it ended up cutting all the brick and making the joint larger. I was pretty upset, i was under the assumption they were going to use a thin blade or other means to get the mortar out, but when you assume....
Anyway, after they tuckpointed and completed the job, everything looked good. I no longer have 'historically significant' face brick, but it looks much better overall. Only a masonry snob like myself or architect will be able to tell the difference. In hindsight, if we were to really want to *restore* the brick to its original condition, we should have hired Marion Restoration. Their crew would have removed the old mortar by hand, and not increased the size of the mortar joints. But, in the end, since we don't have an infinite amount of cash to spend, Stan's work sufficed.
Stan's crew completed the work in 3 days, which is amazingly fast compared to all the other brickwork i see happening in the neighborhood. I've seen scaffolding up for more than a month at other buildings, with not much going on from day to day. The new face brick is not as plumb and level as the original below it, but you can't tell unless you look at it from a particular perspective. It does make me appreciate the work of the German immigrant masons from 1895 even more.
|common brick behind facade replaced with new face brick|
Saturday, April 13, 2013
Not long after the TPO roof was installed, we saw the ceiling drywall joint in 2nd floor kitchen was still discoloring from water damage. There was still a leak even after spending $10K on new roof! I went up to the roof and couldn't find anywhere the water could get in from the roof. I then looked at the adjacent brick wall and rear chimney, and found many holes where water could get in from the side (blowing rain). So, i figured having this brick fixed might be the next remedy.
My friend Steve and his family own a few 2-flats near Loyola. He was also in the middle of multiple rehabs and just happened to be working with a brick mason as part of his re-roof.
|Steve's front parapet wall back being rebuilt|
|Steve's front parapet wall rebuild completed|
|Steve's face brick being rebuilt by Stan's employees|
|Our middle chimney before rebuild|
|close up of slowly falling chimney before rebuild|
|center chimney after rebuild|
nice and straight again!
|my horrible attempt at tuck pointing|
after city violations in 2002, before rebuild
|rear double chimney with large holes in brick|
and mortar before rebuild
|same chimney after rebuild|
and tuck pointing
|rear double chimney after rebuild|
topped with cast concrete, rubber, clay flue, and rain/animal cap
|center chimney before rebuild|
|double chimney during rebuild, steel flue for hot water|
heat exhaust still intact
|double chimney during rebuild|
|Stan's truck - lots of scaffolding|
|Stan's crew put down tarp and plywood to protect roof|
|center chimney during rebuild|
Here's Stan's business information:
Stanislaw Guzik Construction Inc.
Licensed Mason - Chicago and Suburbs
Tuesday, January 22, 2013
Since there are many 'refacing' options available online, I figured I could build the cabinet box and then buy the doors/drawers/hardware separately. It took me some time to realize to build a perfectly square cabinet box is no easy task, especially with the precision required to create frame-less (European style) cabinets. Just having a decent table saw is not good enough.
I contracted Heartland Cabinet Supply to build the boxes to my specs, using the Blum Process 32 (32mm cabinetmaking) system for drawings. Gary, the owner, was nice enough to work with me on my 'odd' project, and he seemed happy to help.
|my Ford Ranger pickup with 5 cabinets, including tall bookcase|
The cabinets were all made using 3/4" plywood on CNC routing machine. They're perfectly sized to the drawings to the millimeter!
|bathroom vanity cabinets, with whiteoak edgebanded fronts,|
stacked on top of each other. They'll be side by side against the wall soon